Horse Camping Advice

Suggestions on Horse Camping

Click on blue outlined picture to enlarge

Sunrise at Mud Lake

In addition to trail riding advice, we recommend certain items to make your horse camping more enjoyable. Certainly, what you bring along to wile away that spare time, is a matter of choice--BUT please remember to be considerate of the other campers. Those firecrackers left over from July 4 probably won't go over big with your camping neighbors' horse, even if YOUR horse doesn't mind. Likewise, with pets. Please keep your dogs leashed--if a habitual barker, leave 'em home!

Relaxing in camp. Both rider and horse can enjoy a break from the trail.

Most horse injuries happen in camp on the picket line. We advise a picket line at least 8' from the ground with a drop line for attaching your horse. We make two passes of the picket line through a welded steel ring where ever you want a drop line. The ring can't slide when in use, but can be easily adjusted when the rope is slack, e.g. when you get to the next camp and need to adjust distances. The drop lines should be attached to the steel ring with a quick disconnect snap, to allow easy release in case your horse becomes tangled. When your horse pulls, he should just barely be able to touch the ground with his lips. Most rope burns result from rope that is left too long in length. Avoid nylon ropes, they stretch to much and give awful rope burns. Sisal rope works great, but will require retightening after the horses have pulled on it, check often. Several people we know have in-line ratchet devices to make it easier to tighten the line. Keeping in mind, that, it is a privilege to camp in such a beautiful setting--please try to keep it that way. Don't picket your horse so close to a tree that they can chew on the trunk or by pawing, disturb the root system. Many camps have sturdy posts provided to picket on. Try to space your animals far enough apart to avoid fighting or kicking. Also, be careful with campfires and don't leave any trash behind. (Most campgrounds provide a dumpster nearby.) Don't throw non-burnable items, cans, glass, etc. into the fire pits.

Please pay (a check works best), the requested camping fee at the tube and indicate that you are "horse camping". (This ensures that the campground authorities are aware of how often the area is utilized as a horse camp.) Be considerate of others! Loud music or overly boisterous behavior--this extends to children too--is seldom appreciated. Most campers regard and prize a "QUITE TIME" after 11P.M. 6A.M. rolls around faster than you think AND grouches are no fun to be around on a long ride.

Further advice:

Horse food--hopefully, as part of your conditioning program you were slowly increasing your horses' intake. Make sure you have plenty of high quality hay and grain along. We prefer, grass hay, that can be offered almost continuously cutting down on boredom. Others use alfalfa fed in smaller quantities. You've heard the expression "Eats like a horse", it's true. We hang hay bags, tied as high as possible, near our drop lines. Since the horses can just touch the ground they can clean up after themselves. Periodically remove any manure piles, to lessen the possibility of food contamination.
Electrolytes--you should add electrolytes to their diet since they don't have free access to a salt block. How much electrolytes depends on how much your horse is sweating. If you mix it in their grain make sure they actually eat it. We have one horse (Cricket) that somehow figured out how to eat the grain and leave the electrolytes behind. Luckily it was realized before any problems developed. Many riders add the electrolytes to the water the horses drink. Be aware that this does change the flavor of the water, and some horses will not drink it unless extremely thirsty.
Buckets--your horses will need as much water as they will drink. Though it varies from horse to horse and is weather dependent, plan on at least 15 gallons/day/horse while in camp. This is on top of all the water they drink along the trail. An indication of whether or not your horse is getting enough electrolytes and water can be obtained by watching the consistency of their "road apples". Hard and dry apples mean you should get more water and electrolytes down your horse. Excessively runny, loose dropping can indicate "too much" electrolytes. Several of the camps have unreliable sources of water. Buckets lined with large garbage bags (twist tied shut) can be used to haul water from a different location. Water can often be obtained from a local friendly fire department, service station or nearby people camp.
Grooming tools--depending upon the weather, this may range from bucket baths (to cool and cleanse) to just generalized brushing. The trail has a lot of sand; you want to make sure the dried on salt from sweat and the sand are removed from their skin before you tack up for the next ride to avoid rubbing your horse raw. Brush, shake or wash as much sand and dirt from the girth as possible. Dirty tack causes just as many problems as a poorly cleaned animal. Bring, at a minimum, 2 saddle pads and girths per horse. This allows one to dry while the other is in use. Watch for saddle sores (warm raised areas) and either adjust your tack or ride in a different saddle if you detect any suspect areas. When untacking, note the pattern of sweat on the back. Dry areas indicate excess pressure and possible problem sites. The back should be uniformly wet. Don't neglect your horses hooves, check for stones and loose nails at least a couple of times a day.
First aid supplies--for horse and people. Vet wrap, 'bute, electrolytes, antibiotic ointment, old clean diapers or rags for bandages, scissors, duct tape, etc.
Extra tack--take along 2 of almost everything, including saddles and bits. We use trail bridles. These are halter/bridle combinations that allow the bit and reins to be removed and the animal fastened to the picket, without a change of headgear.
Truck tubes--inner tubes are a great way to soak away the trail stress in a nearby river or lake. Be sure to provide a means of inflation, like a bike tire pump.
Hammocks, tables and lawn chairs--be sure these items are lightweight and collapsible to minimize packing space and weight. If it requires a great deal of effort to set up or take down, it's best to leave it at home. Be sure to set these articles up where your animals can not become entangled and injured. Childrens' bikes and large toys belong for the most part, at home. What roads are available are sandy and to rough to be ridden on. Most horses are not fond of these items to start with.
Quick to prepare people food--after all that riding and caring for your horse, who has the time or energy to cook a gourmet meal? A few suggestions: spaghetti, Hamburger or Tuna Helper, Instant hot cereals, cold cereals, coffee, tea, hot chocolate, instant juices, popcorn, chips, hot dogs, eggs, flour, instant milk, bread, jelly, peanut butter....! What foods you take depends to an extent on the type of camping and storage resources available to you--camper with fridge/freezer/stove or tent, campfire and cooler.
Plenty of clothes--you will probably need a change/day. Try to plan for variations of weather--sweatshirts, T-shirts, shorts, flannel shirts, lots of socks and underwear, etc. There are a few camps that have laundromats within driving distance. Some people camps will allow you (at a slight charge) to use their facilities, be they for laundry or showering. Your fellow campers will appreciate if you use them.